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World of Coffee II 2011

Costa lotta?

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Simon Brooke
05 Dec 2011

How much would you pay for a cup of cof­fee? Cur­rent­ly a large cap­puc­ci­no will cost you £2.65 to drink in at Caf­fè Nero while at Star­bucks you’ll pay around £2.75 for a Ven­ti (large) drink. For most of us, based on the suc­cess of both chains, this sounds pret­ty rea­son­able.

How­ev­er, if you had asked the same ques­tion per­haps 20 years ago, when for most peo­ple cof­fee was a pow­der that came from a jar and flat white described a wall and lit­tle else, the response would have been very dif­fer­ent. Or, indeed, if you’re abroad: a cup of cof­fee at a Lon­don café will set you back £2.50, com­pared with £1.63 in Paris, £1.44 in Barcelona and just 58p in Lis­bon, accord­ing to a sur­vey in May by Post Office Trav­el Mon­ey.

Whole­sale cof­fee prices, like most com­modi­ties, fluc­tu­ate. Take, for exam­ple, the price paid to pro­duc­ers of Colom­bia mild cof­fee. Over the last ten years this has fall­en from 74.96 US cents per pound in 2000 to just 48.43 cents only three years lat­er. By last year, though, it had rock­et­ed to 180.55 cents.

But look­ing at these fig­ures is real­ly to miss the point about what we, as end con­sumers, will cough up for a cap­po. As Jef­frey Young, ana­lyst for retail, con­sumer lifestyle and tech­nol­o­gy con­sul­tan­cy Alle­gra Strate­gies points out, the actu­al cof­fee in your cup accounts for only a very small part of the total price at the till in a café.

Nat­u­ral­ly if our drinks are more deli­cious our cus­tomers are going to appre­ci­ate this and pay more

“A sin­gle shot of espres­so — the stan­dard is 7grams for a bev­er­age — costs a cof­fee chain mate­ri­al­ly less than 10p per shot,” he says. “Sev­en to eight years ago the psy­cho­log­i­cal bar­ri­er was believed to be £2 which we broke through with no prob­lem. Con­sumers are now pay­ing in excess of £3 for iced cof­fee bev­er­ages in some out­lets.”

“How much con­sumers will pay for a cup of cof­fee is based on a num­ber of fac­tors. Review­ing the mar­ket, the qual­i­ty of the beans and price of cof­fee, the crafts­man­ship and skill that goes into mak­ing each cup of cof­fee and the posi­tion­ing of our brand. How­ev­er, it also needs to be acces-sible,” says Ceri Ai spokes­woman for Caf­fè Nero. “We do believe cus­tomers are will­ing to pay a lit­tle extra for a qual­i­ty cup of cof­fee.”

Or for any added extra per­haps. At CUT, the restau­rant at the new 45 Park Lane, part of the Dorch­ester Col­lec­tion, you’ll pay over £6 for a cof­fee — but in lux­u­ri­ous sur­round­ings. “Coffee’s such an essen­tial ser­vice ingre­di­ent and it must be served per­fect­ly each time,” says Loyd Loudy, restau­rant direc­tor. “We have four ded­i­cat­ed baris­tas who were trained at the com­pa­ny that sup­ply us with our sig­na­ture ara­bi­ca blend, and one of these trained baris­tas is on site for each ser­vice.”

Even in these harsh eco­nom­ic times it seems that more main­stream con­sumers are will­ing to invest in a good cup of cof­fee — and the expe­ri­ence of drink­ing it. Cof­fee shop open­ings are increas­ing in the UK. In April this year Whit­bread announced a near-dou­bling in size of its 1,871-strong Cos­ta chain. And in the US, where the cof­fee rev­o­lu­tion orig­i­nat­ed, niche, gourmet cof­fee hous­es are already charg­ing con­sid­er­ably more than their main­stream com­peti­tors for high end cof­fees with an inter­est­ing prove­nance and back sto­ry. Sales don’t appear to suf­fer.

“We just charge more if we need to,” says a mat­ter-of-fact James Free­man of Blue Bot­tle Cof­fee in Cal­i­for­nia, which is at the fore­front of this move­ment. “We use more cof­fee per serv­ing, we use more expen­sive cof­fee, we take more time to make each drink. So nat­u­ral­ly if our drinks are more deli­cious, and we treat peo­ple well, our cus­tomers are going to appre­ci­ate this — and they’ll be will­ing to pay more.”

How much would you pay for a cup of coffee? Currently a large cappuccino will cost you £2.65 to drink in at Caffè Nero while at Starbucks you’ll pay around £2.75 for a Venti (large) drink. For most of us, based on the success of both chains, this sounds pretty reasonable.

World of Coffee II 2011

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